It will be asked, when the poor Israelite bad povir ed his outer garment "wherein he slept,'* wbit dis< was left to him ? The answer is probably sep^ by the annexed engraving, which represents 6l%^
Modem Oriental UndergannenL
different garments of cotton, or wooUen fm^ cr shirts, which often, in warm weather, form ^ ssii dress of the Bedouin peasants, and the lower ckn of townspeople. To this the oi^ or hybt is the pn^ outer robe (as ui fig. 1, second cut precedmg), ba b usually, in summer, dispensed with in the dartse. and in the ordinary pursuits and occnpatxms of Ht It is sometimes (as in the foregoing cut, fig. 2) wen without, but more usually with a girdle; and il inl be seen that the shorter specimens are not nalfte tk dress of one of the figures (fig. 8) in the earliest cf & Egyptian subjects which have been produced. TW shirt worn by the supe- rior classes is of the same shape, but of finer mate- rials. This is shown in the accompanying fig- ure, which represents a gentleman as just risen fh>m bed. If we call this a shirt, the Hebrews doubtless had it — the sole dress (excepting the cloak) of the poor, and theinnerrobeoftherich. . Such, probably, were the '"sheets" (translated ' "shirts" in some ver- ^ sions), of which Samson
despoiled thirty Philis- ,, , ^^ , ^ ^ tines to pay the forfeit Modern Oriental Uoto*. of his riddle (Judg. xiv, 18, 19). It is shown from ^ Talmud, indeed, that the Hebrews of later days hid r shirt called p^^H, <^akik\ which, it woold appear, was often of wool (Lightfoot, Hor. Heb. on Luke xx, S l and which is described as the ordinary inner gtfraett the outer being the cloak or mantle. This shows that the shirt or trock was, as in modem usage, the orb- nary dress of the Jews, to which a mantle (abba, %K or boumoos) was the outer covering.
The Talmud enumerates eighteen several ganiiest< which formed the clothing of the Jews from h^ t foot (Tahn. Hieros. Sabb. fol. 15; Talm. Bab. Sei^ fol. 120), mentioning, however, two sandals, two bi&- kins, etc. This shows, at least, one thing, that tbe; were not more sparingly dad than the modern Orient
COSTUME
533
COSTUME
1a. This being the case, we may be rare that al- bough penonB of the hambler classes were content rith the shut and the mantle, the wealthier people Lad other robes between these two, and forming a omplete dress without the mantle, which with them ras probably confined to out-of-door wear, or ceremo- Lud use. It is, of course, impossible to discriminate bese precisely, but in this matter we cannot be far rron^ in trusting to the analogy of existing usages. In all the annexed figures, representing persons of
Modem Oriental Outer Garment.
the superior dass, we observe the shirt covered by a striped (sometimes figured) gown or caftan of mingled silk and cotton. It descends to the imkles, with long sleeves, extending a few inches beyond the fingers* ends, but divided from a point a little above the wrist, so that the hand is generally exposed, though it may be concealed by the sleeve when necessary ; for it is costotnary to cover the hands in the presence of a per- fion of high rank. It is very common, especially in winter, for persons to sleep without removing this gown, but only unloosing the girdle by which it is bound. It is not unusual within doors to see persons without any article of dress outside this ; but it is con- sidered decidedly as an undress, and no respectable person is beheld out of doors, or receives or pays visits, without an outer covering. Hence persons clad in this alone are said to be ** naked" in Scripture— that is, not in the usual complete dress ; for there can be no manner of doubt that this, or something like this, is the rains, helho'neth, of Scripture (Exod. xxvui, 40 ; Job XXX, 18; Isa. xxii, 21, etc.). A similar robe is -worn by the women, as was also the case among the Israelites (2 Sam. xiii, 18, 19 ; Cant, v, 8). It is in the bosom of thiB robe that various articles are carried. See Bosom.
The girdle worn over this, around the waist, is usu- ally a colored shawl, or long piece of figured white muslin. The girdle of the poorer classes is of coarse stafiT, and often of leather, with clasps. This leathern girdle is also much used by the Arabs, and by persons of condition when equipped for a journey. It is some- times ornamented with workings in colored worsted, or silk, or with metal studs, shells, beads, etc. Both kinds of girdles were certainly in use among the He- brews (2 Kings i, 8; Matt, iii, 4; Mark i, 6; comp. Jer. xiii, 1). See Girdle. It seems from 2 Sam. XX, 8 (comp. fig. 1 above), that it was usual to wear a knife or poniard in the girdle. This custom is still general, and denotes not any deadly disposition, but the want of clasp-knives. Men of literary vocations replace it by an ink-horn, as was also the case among the Israelites (Ezek. ix, 2).
Over the gown is worn either the short-sleeved gSb- h^ (fig. 8), which is a long coat of woollen cloth, or the long-sleeved heniih (fig. 2), which Lb also of wool- len cloUt, and may be worn either over or instead of