UAX.E JIEAD-DRBS3 (1. PASTORAL. 2. PERSIAN. 3. SYRIAN PEASANT).
Embroidery). The military girdle (2 S 20«) was a baldrick, often set with gems. The girdle was not used to bind up the loose outer garment for pur-
see Bevan, ad loc.) may have been the Persian fez, named from the mould in which the felt was pressed. In the case of the royal crown the cord
DRESS
DKESS
627
of the original head-dress was represented by the gold circlet, and the ecarf by the cap of cloth and the coronatioQ veil. For military head-dreas see Helmet.
7. Border, Hem, Skirt (n:? Mndph, 1 S 24* ; Sis' thai. Ex 39* ; KpiaireSov, Rlt 9"*). The outer par- ment had four corda vith tassela (n'v'V ?izith, Nu IS*", c'V"i3 Dt 22^'', see Driver's note) at the comers. To make the border and frinj^es large and conspicuous wa-s part of the Pliarisaic form (Mt 23°). The corner fringes are seen on the large (allith of synago;;!!'- w cm -Mi', uuJ on the small one
of white cotton worn like an unseen ephod next to the shirt. In the large lallith, about 2 yds. sq., of white cotton or wool with black border or stripes, a sq. inch of coloured silk is sown on each corner inside, and through a hole made precisely in the middle of the patch, so as to make the opening a mathematical comer, there is passed a cord com- posed of eight threads and live knots. This, with the numerical value of n'V'V, 600, makes up 613, the rabbinical number of commandments in the Law. During worship the tassel is taken in the hand and raisnd to the lips. The histo y and sig- niticance of the Fringes will be found fully dis- cu.Hsed under the art. FuiNOKS, vol. li. p. Gbi''; see also thf litfriiture cited there.
8. Nrtpkin {(rovSdpior, Lk 19*, Jn 20', Ac 19"). In a climate like that of Palestine the need of a napkin was occasioned not by cold so much as by dust and heat, as its name implies. At the present day it is used to wipe the face and the back of the hands, and is often partly folded in around the neck to protect the collar of the coat from per- spiration and to give coolness. The same name is given by the Arabs to the small cotton cap which they wear under the woollen fez, and call an arkiyeh (sweat-cloth).
9. Sandals (C'^5;j, O'VV), n'i''VJ, aavSi^ia, Mk 6», Ac 12"). The primitive shoe or sandal was a flat sole of leather, wood, or matted grass with loops attached, through which the shoe-latchet, a leather thong, pa.s9ed and strajiped in the foot. The Arab, nit'al means the sole of the shoe, as being the principal part, thus pointing to the sandal origin. Even with the shoes or slippers of red, black, and yellow leather in common usage, the ancient habits survive, as the natives like to bond down the leather behind the heel, and nuike it
more like a sandal. The wooden sandal in very common ase has a strap nailed on to hold the foot across the toes, showing the beginning of the upper. Those worn by brides at the marriage feast are made 7 or 8 inches high to give the dignity of the cothurnus. Sandals are removed when entering a house or church, or any place where prayer is ollered. The shoe being associated with outside deiilement, and being the lowest article of dress, is used as an epithet of contempt and vituperation, and as an implement of beating. Socks are seldom worn, and in walking the shoe is often removed, or the foot vnth the shoe on is held up to shake out the dust.
10. Female Dress. This ao far resembled male attire as to make interchange possible and pro- hibited, Dt 22°. There was the sAdin or shirt- dress, Is3^; oveTitakith/ineth or tunic-robe, Ca 5', bound with a girdle. Is 3". Over this, ladies of nobility wore an ungirded mi-' i^ or robe after the jiattern of Joseph's 'coat,' 2 S 13". Social life made it possible also for women to have festival robes (AV 'changeable suits of apparel,' Is 3^). There is mention of turbans, ornamental bands of silk, or embroidered linen. Is 3^, probably rather deeper than those commonly worn by men. Another ornamental head-ilress Ls described by the tciMi used for the priestly head-dress, in?. These must have been very elaborate, judging from those
BLKVATKI) IlOiUr,
of the Egyptian monuments, and the tardiness with which tlie metal head-bowl and horn (Arab, tantur) were given up by the women of Syria in modern times. The horn was worn erect, day and night, the veil of a Avidow being black, others while.
The chief articles of si)ecially fem. attire were the veils and mantles. There were miij/lrrs (rfSif;), Is 3'", thin face-veils like gauze-muslin and nun's- veiling, the former brightly coloured with Moral designs, used for the face and breast (Arab. barka'a, mandil).
It is impossible to say precisely what sort of mantle-robe the n;yi"; mantle, Is 3**, may have been. The rfny-.f-? shawls (AV wimples), Is 3*", were large veils of white lace, or tough muslin (white or indigo at present), worn over the head an<l falling down the back. Those worn by Hedawi and jjcasant women are often used for carrying gra.ss, vegetables, or various ])arcels, Ku 3".