4. The turban, of which there were various kinds :
Ancient Oriental Modes of Attire. 1. Egyptian — a. Royal. 6. Female, c. Sacerdotal. :'. Assyrian — a. King. e. l'riest. /. Sceptre-bearer (EunuchJ.
ATTIRE
531
ATTIRE
Modern < (riental Modes of Attire. Bedouin, b. Mamelook. c, Bethlehemite Women.
(1.) Among the ancient Hebrews of either sex, coifs, formed of folds wound about (comp. "jSS 11530) the head, were in common use, but nothing distinct is given as to their shape. Their usual names are as follows: (a.) CpSX, tsaniph' ', which is applied to men (Job xxix, 14"), women (Tsa. iii, 23), and the high- priest (Zech. iii, 5); but which, according to all the passages, was a prominent distinctive costume. (6.) rKSJ1?, mitsne'pheth (Sept. Kidapig or pirpci), which occurs more frequently of the cap of the high-priest (Exod. xxviii, 4, 37, 39; xxix, 6; Lev. xvi, 4, etc.), and but once of the king (Ezek. xxi, 31). See High- priest, (c.) i"i;'35?3, migbaah', simply the bonnet of the ordinary priests (Exod. xxviii, 40; xxix, 9; Lev. viii, 13: see the description of Josephus, under the article Sacerdotal Order), (d.) ^X0, peer', which occurs of the head-dress of men (Isa. lxi, 3, 10; Ezek. xxiv, 17) and women (Isa. iii, 20), and some- times stands in connection with the foregoing term (1115355311 "nXD, Exod. xxxix, 28; comp. Ezek. xliv, 18). This was likewise a piece of special apparel. Schroeder (Vestit. Mill. p. 94 sq.) understands a high- towering turban. The iTI^SS, tsephirah' (Isa. xxviii, o), signifies a crown or diadem, and does not belong here (see Gesenius in loc.) ; on the other hand, Hart- maim (JHebraer. iii, 262) explains it of a chaplet of gorgeous flowers. See Crown. Among the modern Arabs and Persians there are very various kinds of turbans (some of them exceedingly costly), which are always wound out of a long piece of muslin (Arvieux, Voyage, iii, 243; Niebuhr, Reisen, i, 159, comp. pi. 14-23). Nevertheless, this species of head attire ap- pears not to have been customary in the ancient East. On the ruins of Persepolis are delineated sometimes caps ( flat and pointed), sometimes turbans, which were wholly wound out of strips of cloth, and ended in a point (Niebuhr, Reisen, ii, pi. 21, 22). The latter is the more probable form of the coiffure of the Hebrews. Ordinary Israelites, i. e. laborers, probably bound the hair about only with a cord or ribbon (Niebuhr, Besc.hr. p. 64; Reisen, i, 292; comp. the Persepolitan figures in vol. ii, pi. 22, fig. 9; pi. 23, fig. 5, G, 11), or wrapped a cloth around the head, as is yet customary in Arabia. The nets (r":;D) mentioned in the Tal- mud (Mishna, Chel. xxiv, 16) were not hoods (of women), but protectives for the eye-si^ht.. (2.) The tiaras of the Chaldaeans (Herod, i, 195) are called ETpSQU, tebulim' (Ezek. xxiii, 15), probably from their
colored material ; they were, according to the monu- ments (Miinter, Rel, <l. Babyl. p. 97), high in form; and such some interpreters (as Jahn, Archaol. I, ii, 118 sq.) find among the Persians ("^r^i takrih' ' , Esth. viii, 15; X^S*^, karbela ', Dan. 'iii, 21), al- though both these passages rather refer to cloaks (see Lengerke, in loc). — Winer, ii, 634. See Head-dress. 5. The shoe (323, nn'al; inrocijpa, travSaXtov, san- dal) was among the Orientals (as also anions the Greeks and Romans), and still is, a simple sole of leath- er or wood, which was fastened under the foot (comp. Niebuhr, Bcschr. p. 63, pi. 2 ; Mariti, Trav. p. 214 ; Harmer, Obs. iii, 304 sq.) by a thong (~*"1C, serok', Gen. xiv, 23 ; Isa. v, 27 ; ipc'ic, Mark i, 7 ; Luke iii, 16, etc. ; comp. Perizzonius ad Mlian. Var. Hist, ix, 11) passing over it. This protection for the feet, at once suitable to the climate of the East, and probably cheap (comp. Amos ii, 6 ; viii, 6), is found very gen- erally represented on the Persepolitan monuments (Niebuhr, Reisen, ii, 132, pi. 23, 6; Ker Porter, Trav. i, pi. 39, 40, 41, 47). Females probably wore a more costly sort of sandals (Jud. xvi, 11 ; comp. Cant, vii, 1 [see the Targ.~\ ; Ezek. xvi, 10), since also among the Syrians (Virg. A-'.n. i, 366 sq.), the Persians, the Greeks, and the Romans (Martial, ii, 29, 8), shoes of va- riegated (especially purple-colored) leather, and even gilt (calcei aurei), were a favorite article of luxury ; and, although a considerable part of this decoration might be expended upon the latchet merely, yet there is also evidence that sandals with a side and upper leather (like slippers) were employed. The (eminent) Persians certainly wore actual shoes (Xenoph. Cyrop. viii, 1, 41 ; Strabo, xv, 734), and the monuments rep- resent a kind of half-boot (Ker Porter, Trav. i, pi. 39) ; the shoes of the Babylonians, according to Strabo (xvi, 746), were no ordinary sandal, and it is possible that the later Hebrews wore a covering for the feet similar to theirs. The task of binding on and unbind- ing (\veiv, Aristoph. Thesmoph. 1183; in Heb. ^123, *|rbn, or rVw) these soles, and of carrying them about for one's use, was assigned to (menial) slaves (Matt. iii. 11; Mark i. 7; John i, 27; Acts xiii, 25; comp. Talm. Bab. Kidditsh, xvii, 2 ; Ketkuboih, lxvi, 1 ; Plu- tarch, Sympos. vii, 8, 4; Arrian, Epict. iii, 26, 21 ; Eu- seb. Hist. Eccl. iv, 15; see Kype, Observ. i, 12 sq. ; C. W. Volland [A. Plathner], De sandaligerulis Hebr. Vi- tel). 1712; also in Ugolini Thesaur. xxix). Indoors the Orientals wore no shoes, which visitors were re- quired to leave in the outer hall (comp. also Plat. %ra>